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CHICKEN GUIDE

Keeping chickens in New Zealand

Backyard chickens in NZ: coops and predators, feeding, laying ages, names from pullet to point of lay, council rooster rules, and yearly costs.

These guides have not been verified by veterinary professionals. They are general information gathered from New Zealand sources, not veterinary advice. Talk to your vet about the health and care of your own animals.

Lifespan
Often 8–10 years in a backyard
Keep at least
Three hens
Starts laying
At about 18–22 weeks old
Yearly cost
About $100–$115 a hen, before bedding

Why keep chickens

Eggs are the most popular reason. Most heritage breeds are dual purpose, so spare birds can go to the table, and commercial meat birds can be ready in about six weeks.

Commercial hybrids such as Shaver Brown and Hy-Line Brown lay the most: about 300 eggs in their first season under commercial conditions, and fewer in a backyard. They lay very well for a year or two but tend to burn out early. Heritage breeds lay fewer eggs, especially over winter, and often keep laying for longer. In her second season a hen lays about 70–75% as many eggs as in her first, and older hens lay larger eggs with thinner shells. Laying slows as the days shorten and picks up again once days are longer than 12 hours.

Coop, run, and predators

Keep at least three hens, because chickens need company. They need a rainproof coop with perches at different heights, enough perch for every bird at once and none above food or water. Auckland Council suggests at least 30 cm of perch per bird, a coop roof at least 60 cm high, and more than 3 m² of ground for the flock. SPCA suggests at least one nest box for every 3–4 hens, lined with straw or shavings.

New Zealand chickens are hunted by stoats, ferrets, weasels, rats, dogs, cats, and harrier hawks, and possums take eggs. A fully enclosed run with netting over the top and mesh under the coop keeps most out. Stoats and ferrets hunt mainly at night, so lock the coop every evening; an automatic door helps. Store feed in rat-proof containers and don’t leave food scattered around.

Feeding and water

A laying hen eats about 120–130 g of complete layer pellets a day. Laying hens also need grit to digest their food. If they eat anything besides complete layer feed, offer oyster shell grit in a separate dish for calcium. During the moult, a lower-calcium, higher-protein feed such as pullet grower helps them regrow feathers.

Hens must always have water: in hot weather even a few hours without can be fatal. Give shade in summer and keep them below about 25°C. Keep wild birds away from feed and water, and use mains or tested bore water, to reduce the risk of bird flu. Long grass clippings can block a hen’s crop, so don’t feed them.

Names for chickens

Point of lay and pullet are the terms you will see most in chicken listings.

Hen
An adult female that has started laying.
Rooster or cock
An adult male.
Cockerel
A young male, usually under a year old.
Pullet
A young female that has not started laying yet.
Chick
A young bird from hatching to about 6–7 weeks.
Point of lay (POL)
A pullet sold just before she starts laying, usually 16–20 weeks old.
Chook
The everyday New Zealand and Australian word for a chicken.
Capon
A castrated male raised for meat.
Broody or clucky
A hen that wants to sit on eggs and hatch them. She stops laying and stays on the nest overnight.
Bantam
A miniature version of a breed.
Layer and meat bird (broiler)
A chicken bred for eggs, and one bred for meat.
Hybrid
A commercial cross bred for high egg numbers, such as a Shaver Brown.
Spent hen or end of lay
A hen past her productive laying life.
Moult
The yearly loss and regrowth of feathers, usually as winter approaches. It lasts about eight weeks, and laying stops.
Pecking order
The social ranking within a flock.
Sexed and straight run
Chicks sorted by sex, and chicks sold as hatched, which will include roosters.
Flock, brood, and clutch
Birds living together, chicks hatched together, and a set of eggs being sat on.

Regular jobs

Every day

  • Give fresh water and feed.
  • Collect eggs, ideally twice a day, which also stops hens learning to eat them.
  • Check every bird.
  • Lock the coop at dusk and let the hens out in the morning.

Every week

  • Remove droppings and soiled bedding.
  • Check for red mite at night with a torch, on the birds’ legs and breasts and in the joints of perches.

Every few months

  • Worm twice a year, and check the egg withholding period on the label (six days for some wormers).
  • Repeat mite and lice treatments 7–10 days apart to catch newly hatched mites.
  • Autumn: support hens through the moult.
  • Summer: provide shade and cool water.
  • Keep new birds apart from your flock for at least 14 days before mixing them.

Health problems to watch for

Chickens hide illness until they are very sick. A bird that is listless, has drooping wings or fluffed, dull feathers, breathes heavily, or sits apart needs isolating and attention quickly.

  • Red mite: tiny mites that hide in the coop by day and feed at night. Signs are a pale comb and wattles and restless birds at night. They can survive about nine months without birds.
  • Scaly leg mite: raised, crusty, thickened scales on the legs.
  • Lice: brown flecks moving on the skin and white egg clusters near the vent.
  • Coccidiosis, mainly in young chicks, and more likely with wet bedding.
  • Egg binding: a hen standing upright and straining, with a waddling walk.
  • Crop problems: a hard, swollen crop is impacted, and a squishy, sour-smelling one is sour crop. The crop should be empty first thing in the morning.
  • Marek’s disease: paralysis, often with one leg forward and one back, usually at 10–25 weeks. Commercial pullets are vaccinated at the hatchery, so ask when buying.
  • Bird flu: sudden deaths, a darkened or swollen comb, wattles, or head, coughing, green diarrhoea, or a sudden drop in eggs. Call your vet or MPI’s exotic pest and disease hotline on 0800 80 99 66.

What chickens cost to keep

A flock of four hens, per year, NZD, September 2026 prices
Layer pelletsAbout 175–190 kg (9–10 bags of 20 kg) at $36–$37 a bag; premium brands cost more$320–$350
Mite and lice treatmentA lice powder and a leg spray$30–$60
WormerOne bottle treats a small flock many times$25–$32
Oyster shell gritA 10 kg bag$22
Typical total$395–$465

Bedding is extra and depends on your coop: a 12 kg bag of wood shavings is about $50 and a bale of straw about $28. A ready-made coop costs about $350–$1,000 once. Pullets, feeders, drinkers, run netting, and vet care are also extra.

New Zealand rules

  • Councils limit poultry numbers and roosters in town. In urban Auckland you can keep up to 6 hens on a site under 2,000 m² (12 on larger sites) and no rooster without approval. Wellington’s residential areas allow up to 8 hens and no rooster without written permission. Hamilton requires a permit for a rooster. Check your own council’s bylaw.
  • The Code of Welfare: Layer Hens applies to hens kept at home as well as to commercial flocks. Owners must, for example, check their birds every day.
  • Never use a rooster collar to stop crowing: SPCA advises against them and a collar that restricts breathing is an offence. Forcing hens to moult is also banned.
  • Selling eggs: if you have 100 or fewer hens and sell all your eggs directly to the people who will eat them, at the gate, at a market, or by your own delivery, you don’t need an MPI Risk Management Programme. Selling to shops or cafés is different. Other rules still apply, so check with MPI.
  • Bird flu: H5N1 was found in wild birds in New Zealand in July 2026. Report sick or dead poultry, or three or more sick or dead wild birds, to MPI on 0800 80 99 66. New biosecurity plan rules apply to flocks of more than 100 birds.

See chickens on Hooves

Sources

Reviewed 25 September 2026. General information for New Zealand animal keepers, not veterinary or legal advice. Prices change; check with your vet and local suppliers.