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Care guide

Keeping sheep in New Zealand

Sheep on a NZ lifestyle block: flock size, shearing, drenching, flystrike, the names from hogget to two-tooth, NZ rules, and yearly costs.

These guides are summaries of the linked sources, not veterinary or legal advice. They have not been verified by veterinary professionals. Consult current official sources, your veterinarian and relevant experts for advice about your animals. Rules, recommendations and costs can change.

Sources and further reading

Lifespan
About 10–12 years. Most breeding ewes retire at 5–7.
Keep at least
A small group; SPCA suggests 4–5
Main jobs
Shearing, drenching, flystrike prevention, and feet
Yearly cost
About $70–$170 a sheep in a flock of five

Why keep sheep

Sheep keep grass down, and give meat, wool, and lambs to sell. They are cautious animals that run from surprises, but they are easily trained to come for food and can recognise dozens of other sheep by face.

They are also very social: being separated from the flock is very stressful for a sheep. SPCA suggests a group of about 4–5 as ideal on a lifestyle block. Overstocking is the most common welfare problem on lifestyle blocks, so start small. A block that carries plenty of sheep in spring may carry only a tenth as many in winter.

Feed, water, shelter, and fences

Base feed on each sheep’s size, age, body condition and whether it is pregnant or feeding lambs. Ask your vet or livestock adviser how to assess condition and when to add hay or other suitable feed. Introduce supplements gradually. Keep fresh water available at all times; hot weather and dry feed increase demand.

Sheep need shelter from cold, a way to escape heat, and protection at lambing. Newly shorn sheep need extra shelter for several weeks if cold, wet weather is likely.

Fences must be sturdy enough to hold lambs, and checked regularly. Electric fencing is widely used, but it works poorly on sheep in full wool and doesn’t suit horned sheep. A small set of yards, about a metre high, makes shearing, drenching, and foot care much easier.

Names for sheep

Sheep are often described by their teeth: a lamb’s first two permanent front teeth arrive at about 14–16 months, and more follow each year.

Ewe
An adult female.
Ram or tup
An uncastrated male kept for breeding. Tupping means mating.
Wether
A castrated male.
Lamb
A young sheep before weaning. For meat, a lamb is under 12 months or has no permanent front teeth in wear.
Ewe lamb and ram lamb
Female and male lambs.
Hogget
A young sheep from weaning, at about 4 months, until its first permanent teeth come through at about 14–16 months.
Two-tooth
A sheep with its two central permanent front teeth, usually between about 1 and 2 years old.
Four-tooth and six-tooth
Older sheep with four or six permanent front teeth, roughly 2–3 and 3–4 years old.
Full mouth
All eight permanent front teeth, at about 4 years or older.
Broken mouth
An older sheep with missing or broken front teeth, which makes grazing harder.
CFA ewe
Cast for age: an older ewe, usually over 5, culled from a breeding flock.
Mutton
Meat from an older sheep with more than two permanent front teeth.
Pet lamb
A lamb reared on a bottle, often an orphan. Also called a cade or poddy lamb.
Store
A sheep in fair condition but not fat, sold for someone else to finish.
Flock and mob
A flock is any group of sheep; a mob is a group managed together.
Tailing or docking
Shortening lambs’ tails, usually done with castration and ear tagging at lamb marking.
Crutching, dags, and dagging
Crutching is shearing the wool around the tail and back legs. Dags are clumps of dung-covered wool; dagging is cutting them off.
Cast sheep
A sheep stuck on its back, often when heavy in lamb or in a heavy fleece. Roll it back onto its feet.

Regular jobs

Every day

  • Check water and look over the flock for the warning signs below.
  • Look for cast sheep, especially heavily pregnant or woolly ones.
  • In summer, watch for dark, damp, or oily patches in the wool, a sign of flystrike.

Worm-control checks

  • Agree a faecal egg-count schedule with your vet and use the results with the flock’s health and growth to guide treatment.
  • Young sheep need a worm-control plan. Ask your vet which tests and treatments suit your flock, and when to check that treatment worked.

Through the year

  • Autumn (March and April): put the ram out. Cull ewes with bad teeth, feet, or udders.
  • Before lambing: agree the ewes’ vaccination plan with your vet and follow the vaccine label for timing and boosters.
  • Spring: prepare a lambing plan with your vet, including early colostrum feeding, signs that need help, vaccination, marking and weaning. Arrange any procedures in advance and check the current pain-relief rules.
  • Late spring and early summer: shear at least once a year, before hot weather, but not in winter or close to lambing. A shearer can trim feet at the same time.
  • Spring to autumn: crutch before the high-risk times for flystrike, and use a preventive fly treatment through summer and early autumn.
  • Before warm, wet weather: ask your vet about local facial eczema risk and a suitable prevention plan.

Shedding breeds such as Wiltshire drop their fleece from spring and need no shearing or crutching. Not every Dorper sheds fully, so ask to see a breeder’s flock before you buy.

Health problems to watch for

SPCA’s warning signs include a sheep standing apart from the flock, staggering or shivering, fast breathing or coughing, runny eyes or nose, rubbing against fences, diarrhoea, grazing on its knees, and overgrown or smelly feet.

  • Flystrike: maggots in dirty or damp wool. The sheep may rub or nibble at the spot, then become lethargic, go off its feed, and go down. Treat it promptly.
  • Worms, one of the most common problems vets see on lifestyle blocks.
  • Facial eczema: droopy ears, a swollen face, and peeling skin, from January to May.
  • Shaking or staggering needs prompt veterinary advice. Ryegrass staggers is one possible cause; keep sheep calm and ask your vet about suitable pasture and care.
  • Footrot and scald after long spells of wet weather: severe lameness and a hot, swollen foot.
  • Clostridial diseases such as pulpy kidney and tetanus, which often cause sudden death. The 5-in-1 vaccine protects against them.
  • Lice need a suitable treatment plan. Bloat can be fatal: a bulging belly, panting or staggering needs an immediate vet call.

What a sheep costs to keep

One sheep in a flock of five, on your own grazing, per year, NZD, illustrative September 2026 estimates, not current quotes
ShearingOne Waikato contractor charges a $140 call-out plus $15 a head, shared by five sheep$43
Foot trimmingDone by the shearer$5
5-in-1 vaccine boosterOne dose$3–$3.50
DrenchIllustrative allowance; treatment and testing depend on your flock’s worm-control plan$1–$20
Facial eczema zincIllustrative allowance; product and amount depend on your vet’s prevention plan$0–$15
Winter hay2–4 conventional bales at $10–$20, if pasture runs short$20–$80
Typical total$70–$170

These figures are approximate planning examples. Confirm feed quantities, treatment needs and current prices, including GST, delivery and whole-pack purchases, with suppliers and your vet before budgeting.

Small flocks pay far more per head than commercial farms, where shearing averages $2–$3 a sheep; with only one sheep, the call-out fee alone makes shearing about $155. You also buy products by the pack: a litre of drench is $150–$175, a pack of zinc capsules about $172, and a bottle of fly treatment $130 or more. Some vaccines keep only 30 days once opened, so single-dose packs, or a shearer who vaccinates and drenches, can work out cheaper for a few sheep. Fly treatment, crutching, vet visits, and the sheep themselves are extra. Home kill of a lamb, killed, cut, and packed, costs about $90–$140.

New Zealand rules

  • The Code of Welfare: Sheep and Beef Cattle requires shelter, enough water, and food and water soon after shearing. Owners must take all reasonable steps to prevent flystrike and treat struck sheep promptly. It recommends shearing as often as needed, usually at least once a year. Check the Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI) for the current version.
  • Before tail docking, check MPI’s current rules on age, permitted methods, tail length, operator competence and pain relief. Ask your vet to help plan the procedure.
  • Before castration, check the current age, method and pain-relief requirements with your vet and MPI. Do not treat a brief guide as permission to carry out a procedure.
  • Sheep movements need an Animal Status Declaration (ASD). Keep incoming forms while the animals are in your care and for a year afterwards; keep outgoing copies for a year.
  • NAIT tagging applies to cattle and deer. If you also keep cattle or deer, report how many sheep you had on 30 June by 31 July each year. Check OSPRI for current requirements.
  • Homekill meat cannot be sold, bartered or traded. Before booking, check MPI’s current rules for animal owners and listed homekill providers, including who can use the service, any care period and who may receive the meat.

See sheep on Hooves

Sources and further reading

Source notes dated 25 September 2026. General information for New Zealand animal keepers, not veterinary or legal advice. Prices change; check with your vet and local suppliers.