Keeping pigs in New Zealand

Why keep pigs

Most lifestyle-block pigs are weaners bought at 6–8 weeks old and raised for the freezer. Buying in late spring means they are ready for killing in autumn. A porker takes about six months; a baconer about nine.

Kunekune are a small grazing breed, kept as pets and grass-keepers. Adults can hold condition on good pasture with little else, and extra feed quickly makes them fat. Commercial breeds such as Large White grow faster but get far less of their diet from grass and root up paddocks. Heritage breeds such as Tamworth and Saddleback are popular for free-range pork.

Space, shelter, and company

Pigs are social: keep at least two that get on well. Check your council’s rules before buying, because some areas ban pigs or limit numbers.

Pigs are escape artists. A single electric wire about 20 cm off the ground, in front of the main fence, controls most well-trained pigs. Rotate paddocks, or keep one area for rooting, to limit damage to pasture and the build-up of worms.

The law requires a dry lying area and ventilated shelter from heat and cold. A corrugated iron hut can get very hot in summer. Pigs barely sweat, so give them shade and a wallow: mud cools them better than water and helps prevent sunburn. Keep drinking water separate from the wallow.

Feeding and water

Ask your vet or feed adviser for a ration suited to the pig’s breed, size, age and condition. Use suitable pig feed, follow its instructions and change diets gradually. Pasture and suitable vegetables can add variety but do not automatically provide a balanced diet. Check that every pig can reach its feed.

Keep fresh drinking water available at all times in containers pigs cannot tip over or foul. Needs rise in hot weather. Water deprivation can lead to fatal salt poisoning. If water has been unavailable or you suspect salt poisoning, call a vet urgently for instructions on restoring water safely. Check the supply daily and more often in extreme weather.

Don’t feed green or raw potatoes, unripe tomatoes, wild mushrooms, or apple and pear seeds.

Names for pigs

The weight terms are how pork pigs are bought, sold, and booked in for killing.

Sow

An adult female that has had one or more litters.

Gilt

A young female that has not had a litter yet.

Boar

An uncastrated male, usually over 9 months old.

Barrow

A castrated male. Mostly an American word; arrange any castration through your vet and check current MPI requirements.

Piglet or sucker

A young pig that has not been weaned.

Weaner

A weaned young pig, up to about 30 kg. This is what most people buy to raise.

Grower and finisher

A pig of 30 kg or more being raised for meat; a finisher is over about 70 kg.

Porker

A pig raised to about 50–60 kg liveweight for fresh pork, at around 6 months.

Cutter

A pig between porker and baconer weight.

Baconer

A pig raised to about 80–100 kg liveweight for bacon and ham, at around 9 months.

Hog

A general American word for a pig; rarely used on New Zealand farms.

On heat

Ready to mate. It comes round about every 21 days, and she stands still when pressed on the rump.

In pig

Pregnant. Pregnancy lasts about 114 days: three months, three weeks, and three days.

Farrowing

Giving birth. A litter is often around 10 piglets.

Runt

A small, poorly developed piglet in a litter.

Dry sow

A sow that is not producing milk.

Regular jobs

Health problems to watch for

• Heat stress: move the pig into shade, start gentle cooling with a damp towel, and call a vet promptly. Do not wait several hours for a distressed pig to improve.
• Sunburn, especially in pale breeds. Shade and mud help.
• Salt poisoning after running out of water (see above).
• Worms, which stunt young pigs.
• Lice and mange. Lice are worse in winter, mange in summer.
• Obesity, especially in kunekune. It can cause lameness, bed sores, and fat blocking a pig’s eyes (“fat blindness”).
• Unusual illness or sudden deaths: call the exotic pest and disease hotline run by the Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI), on 0800 80 99 66.

What it costs to raise a pig for pork

These figures are approximate planning examples. Confirm feed quantities, treatment needs and current prices, including GST, delivery and whole-pack purchases, with suppliers and your vet before budgeting.

Budget for at least two compatible pigs. Growth time and feed use vary by breed, starting weight and diet, so get a feeding budget before buying. Do not use scraps as a substitute for a balanced ration or assume meat-free food waste is automatically suitable; check MPI’s guidance. Worming, vet visits, fencing, shelter, water and transport are extra.

Kunekune also need an individual feeding plan. Ask your vet or feed adviser to assess pasture, body condition and any supplementary feed needed before estimating the annual feed bill.

New Zealand rules

• Food scraps can spread serious diseases to pigs. Do not feed meat or food that has touched meat. Before feeding other food waste, check MPI’s current guidance on what is allowed. Do not assume cooking makes scraps suitable.
• Pig movements need the separate pig Animal Status Declaration (ASD) form. Check OSPRI’s guidance for the form and record-keeping requirements.
• NAIT tagging applies to cattle and deer. If you also keep cattle or deer, report how many pigs you had on 30 June by 31 July each year. Check OSPRI for current requirements.
• Check MPI’s current pig welfare and procedure rules before castration, tail docking or any work on noses or tusks. Ask your vet who may perform the procedure and what pain relief is required. Provide a secure enclosure rather than tethering.
• Homekill meat cannot be sold, bartered or traded. Before booking, check MPI’s current rules for animal owners and listed homekill providers, including who can use the service, any care period and who may receive the meat.